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 11-03-2004, 15:26 Post: 99774
denwood



Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Quarryville PA
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 concrete floor in barn

Any civil engineers or such out there that can tell me the hard facts on concrete. I am looking to put in the best floor possible using 2500-3500 lb concrete and want to know the down side if there is one (cost is not one)to high PSI concrete, 3000 or 3500 lb. It will be 45' x75'. I will not heat it, I will put in overhead lifts, it will be 4-5 inches thick over 2-6" of crushed stone, reinforced with welded wire mesh, and support heavy loads at times. I am not looking for opinions that I won't need high psi for this application, just facts. I want the strongest, longest lasting, possible within reason.






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 11-04-2004, 19:21 Post: 99845
denwood



Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Quarryville PA
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 concrete floor in barn

Thanks for the replies, just wanted to add more details so reccomendations may be more accurate for my situation. I had to cut and fill to get level ground I was shooting for a 40 x 60 building but when the excavator was done, we realized a 45 x75 would fit so that is what I ordered. All top soil was stripped and sub-soil was used for pad. Soil was loamy with mica , not a lot of clay or sand or rock. Compaction was done with 955 cat with narrow tracks as it was filled. Site sat for a year to settle and then I layed fabric and 3/4" crushed stone about 4" deep. The building is all steel I-beam type. When the building came, we cut holes in the fabric and excavated (8) 4'x4' pits for the uprights and poured 12" of concrete with rebar frames coming out the center, then 2'x 18" forms up to finished floor grade with the anchor bolts. The reason I now have 2-6" of stone is the concrete trucks pumped the muck under the fabric as they drove over. We had a very wets pring. The building has been up for about 1.5 years and the dirt is very hard under the fabric. I tried my jumping jack and it wouldn't budge, just pulverized the fabric. The tin on the sides sets 1.5 inches below finished floor grade. I planned on bracing it on the outside with wood and putting plactic sheets on the inside and pouring right to the wall to fill the corrugation pattern of the tin. A purlin is 12" above floor grade. At the very least I wanted to put plactic down under the concrete, possibly double bubble foil/plastic insulation or 1" foam sheets. I worry about the foam because of the tight tolerance to finished grade and getting enough concrete in. I may heat part later but not on a regular basis. What is a rat wall and why would I want one? Never heard one mentioned in this area by any builders/ masons. We are zone 6 near the edge of 7. rarely gets to 0 F and pipes only go 36" deep to insure no freeze Most frost I have seen is 12-18"






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